If you’ve been following my journey into Pokémon investing, you know I’m all about transparency—tracking every cent spent versus its current market value. It’s not enough to just have the cool cards; you need to know if they are performing as assets.

Today, I’m doing a spot-check on my top 5 “heavy hitters.” These are the items that make up the bulk of my portfolio’s value and volatility. I’ve updated their values based on current market data from TCGplayer and recent auction sales as of November 2025.

Here is the current snapshot:

Key Takeaways

• The Crown Jewel: The PSA 9 Van Gogh Pikachu continues to be an absolute monster. I bought in at $190, and it has since tripled in value to roughly $600. This single card is doing major heavy lifting for my portfolio’s green ink.
• The Comeback Kid: My sealed 151 Ultra Premium Collection (UPC) was previously showing a loss. However, the sealed market for Scarlet & Violet: 151 has heated back up, pushing its value to ~$550 and putting me back in profit by $53.
• Steady Performers: The Bubble Mew is holding its high value steady at $640, and the PSA 10 Charmander Promo has seen a nice little bump up to nearly $400.
• The Dip: Not everything only goes up. My PSA 10 Pikachu VMAX has slipped slightly, currently showing a small $17 loss on paper. It’s a good reminder that even popular cards have fluctuations.

The Bottom Line (For These 5 Items)

• Total Original Cost: $1,618.86
• Current Market Value: ~$2,461.00
• Total Profit: +$842.14

Overall, just these five items alone have secured over $840 in profit. It validates the strategy of mixing high-demand sealed product (like 151) with chase slabs. I’ll continue to monitor that Pikachu VMAX to see if it bounces back, but for now, I’m holding strong

She was right. Less than two years ago, I used a water-based deck paint that promised the world. The reality? It started peeling almost immediately. It looked terrible.

I figured I’d start by cleaning it off. I broke out my Ryobi pressure washer with the 12″ surface cleaner attachment. I thought I was just going to knock off the dirt, but I ended up knocking off… everything. The remaining paint just started flying off in sheets.

The deck didn’t just need cleaning anymore; it needed a full restoration.

The DIY vs. Pro Debate

I immediately hit YouTube. I’m a firm believer that you can learn anything there, and sure enough, I found exactly what I needed. I could rent a massive deck floor sander from Home Depot, spend a weekend grinding it down to bare wood, and do it myself.

My wife, however, had a different vision. A vision that involved us not spending our entire weekend covered in sawdust. She voted to hire a professional.

We got a guy out for a quote. The price tag? $2,000.

Ouch.

The Unexpected Value of a Quote

While the $2,000 stung, having the pro there actually paid off in a different way. While he was inspecting the deck, he pointed to the black “dirt” on our siding that I’d been ignoring for years.

“That’s not dirt,” he said. “That’s mildew and mold.”

Great. Another project.

The 3-Minute Miracle

Faced with a $2,000 deck quote, I wanted a quick win that didn’t cost a fortune. I went back to YouTube to figure out how to handle this siding mold without destroying it with high pressure.

I found a video recommending something called “30 Seconds Outdoor Cleaner.” The claim: spray it on, wait, hose it off. No scrubbing, no pressure washer.

I was skeptical—nothing is ever that easy. It cost me about $40 at the hardware store, but it was still a lot cheaper than hiring another pro, so it was worth a shot.

I hooked it up to the regular garden hose, sprayed down the nasty black mold on the siding, and waited. True to its name, you could practically watch the mold disappear. Three minutes later, I rinsed it with just the standard hose pressure.

It was spotless. Years of grime, gone in literally minutes.

The Verdict

We are still debating the $2,000 deck refinish. I still think I can tackle it with that Home Depot rental sander.

But if you have “black dirt” on your siding, save yourself the professional cleaning fee. That $40 bottle of 30 Seconds Cleaner is the real deal. Sometimes the easiest fix actually is the best one.

But recently, the relationship turned toxic.

It wasn’t just that it was old; it was that it actively stopped working. The “sure-fire” ignition became a game of chance, eventually turning into a game of “click-click-click… silence.” I was tired of manually lighting it with a long match like I was lighting a 19th-century lantern just to cook a hot dog.

Worse yet was the realization about materials. When I bought it 15 years ago, I saw “stainless steel” on the box and thought I was set for life. I learned the hard way that there is high-quality stainless steel, and then there is whatever “cheap stainless” my Brinkmann was actually made of. It wasn’t just dirty; it was rusting through in ways metal shouldn’t if it truly is “stainless.”

Finding replacement parts for a defunct brand (Brinkmann went bankrupt in 2015) to fix a rusting hulk that wouldn’t even start felt like throwing good money after bad. It was time to upgrade.

The Research Rabbit Hole

Diving into the modern grill market after 15 years was a shock. I knew I wanted something that wouldn’t just look nice for a year and then start corroding. My research quickly narrowed down to the gold standard: Weber.

Here is the breakdown of my research journey, fueled by my desire to never hear that futile “click-click-click” again:

1. The Material Reality Check

Coming from my rusting “stainless” experience, I paid close attention to materials. I learned that Weber’s porcelain-enameled hoods (the classic black ones) often outlast cheap stainless steel competitors because the coating is baked on and virtually rust-proof. If I was going to go stainless again, it had to be the real deal this time.

2. The Ignition Factor

I read extensively about Weber’s “GS4” grilling system. The biggest selling point for me? The “Infinity Ignition.” They actually guarantee the thing will light every time. After months of wrestling with my Brinkmann’s failed starter, this sounded like a luxury feature.

3. The Contenders

• Weber Spirit II E-310: The logical, responsible choice. It has the good ignition system, solid materials, and fits the same space my old grill did.
• Weber Genesis: The temptress. Bigger, heavier, and built like a tank. The lids feel substantial, not tinny like my old grill had become.

The Decision

I hauled the old Brinkmann to the curb last weekend. Seeing the rust spots in the daylight really confirmed my decision—it had served its time.

I’m looking forward to a summer where I don’t need a backup plan just to get the grill lit, and where I don’t have to worry that my “stainless” steel is slowly disintegrating while I cook.

Time to fire up the new one. (On the first click).

Fuel Costs:

vehicles are generally more energy-efficient than traditional internal combustion engine vehicles. Charging an electric car is often cheaper per mile than fueling a gas-powered vehicle, especially if you charge at home during off-peak hours.

Maintenance Costs:

Given that EVs have less moving parts than traditional Internal Combustion Engine vehicles, there are less maintenance costs. There are no oil changes to do and no water pumps that can fail or timing belts to change. With regen braking and one pedal driving, the brakes don’t have any or little wear.

But if you track your Tesla, it is recommended to upgrade the brakes since the calipers are undersized since it relies on the regen braking to make up for the smaller brake system. For tracking it recommended to upgrade the brake pads to a more aggressive pad and upgrade the brake fluid.

Incentives:

For those that qualify to the federal tax credits and meet the income requirements, the incentives make buying a Tesla cheaper than the traditional ICE equivalent. With current pricing a Model 3 Short Range Plus can be had for $28,490 after the tax credit.

Depreciation:

During 2020, with the vehicle shortages, Teslas had little to no depreciation and you could sell a used one for the price of the new ones. But with the recent slashing of prices from Tesla to entice new adoption to EVs has caused the used Tesla market to drop significantly.

For example I bought my 2023 Model Y Performance back in March 2023 for $58990 before tax incentive and currently in November 2023 it goes for $52490 before tax incentive.

Charging Costs:

The cost of charging your Tesla depends on the electricity rates in your area. Charging at home is usually more cost-effective than using public charging stations.

Upfront Cost:

Teslas are generally more expensive upfront compared to traditional vehicles. However, over time, the savings on fuel and maintenance costs may offset the higher initial purchase price.

It’s important to note that individual circumstances vary, and the financial benefits of owning a Tesla or any electric vehicle can depend on factors like local incentives, driving patterns, and electricity costs. Additionally, as technology advances and the market for electric vehicles evolves, the economic landscape may change. Before making a purchase decision, it’s advisable to consider all these factors and calculate the total cost of ownership based on your specific situation.